California 2.0

The Rock

So our last entry left you all hanging and thinking about the mischievous deeds Antoinette and James would be up too when they hit San Francisco. The city itself is relatively small, by city standards, with approximately 750,000 residents, but there is so much history in San Francisco you do not know where to start. We were located right in the heart of the downtown district in an ok motel, but the location is what got us really excited.

After crashing hard in the afternoon after the long and busy drive composing of aggravated Americans, lost Asians and totally awesome Australians [we give you one guess to figure out which group we were part of] we booked ourselves tickets to one of the city’s most famous landmarks and tourism hotspots, Alcatraz. We decided to walk in the morning, as the map made it look easy, but we have both sworn never to say another word about how geographically boring Perth is compared to this place. After many ascents and descents through the hills of central San Fran, including a waddle through the ‘crookedest’ street in the world, we arrived at the iconic waterfront district and were en-route to the small island in no time.

Alcatraz has so many stories to tell, and the island itself has changed its persona more than a hermaphrodite on drag night, but just walking around the grounds was enough to make you appreciate how isolated the prisoners of Alcatraz were. The cellblocks were eerily quiet as everyone was cruising around buckled to the voices of the audio tour and getting the insights of former wardens and inmates into the daily happenings on The Rock. There were stories of retribution, foiled escape attempts and gory details of prison life. The views to San Francisco were brilliant and the prisoners would have been able to enjoy what is one of the best views of the city if it were not for the 6m high brick walls and barbed wire surrounding their ‘recreation yard.’

The Golden Gate Bridge

After our Alcatraz experience we headed back to our temporary home to recoup for the next two days in the city. We jumped on one of the ‘hop-on / hop-off’ buses and headed for the Golden Gate Park, a massive man made expanse of huge trees, shrubs and grassland. In the latter half of the 1900s the Golden Gate Park was transformed from barren sand dunes into the lush and beautiful retreat it is today. We have also walked the span of the Golden Gate Bridge, checked out were the ‘hippy movement’ began, discovered the joys of antique arcade machines on Pier 45 and strolled the streets of central San Francisco taking in the epic Victorian and Edwardian style homes that colourfuly dot streetscape after streetscape. San Francisco is the sort of place you could spend a month and still not see everything, but with this just being the start of our trip we needed to keep moving. If we were to come back it would be with a lot more money in our back pockets to take full advantage of the insane amounts of boutique retailers and one-of-a-kind shops that we just do not have back home. When it was time to say goodbye to San Francisco it was time to say hello again to mountain country and we set out for Yosemite National Park.

A grassy meadow in Yosemite Valley

The three and a half hour drive rewards you with massive slabs of granite rocks sprouting vertically into the bright blue sky on either side with lush forests, meadows and rivers at every turn. The sights here are unlike anything we have ever seen before and the pictures we have burned into our memories do the place more justice than even the most high-resolution panoramic shot of the valley. The next day we wound our way down through Fresno to Kings Canyon National Park and took a hair raising ride down into the valley, which [for those of you playing at home] is not as much fun as it sounds in a 17ft camper van on steep winding roads with loads of blind corners, but once we got to the valley floor and were enveloped by the walls of granite we quickly forgot the potential drama of the downward journey.

Giant Sequoias at Kings Canyon.

Going back up was a little easier and after cruising through some fog we arrived at a patch of forest that is home to some of the biggest trees in the world, the Giant Sequoia. These trees are massive. Standing 30m away you still cannot get the entire thing in a picture frame and the biggest one, General Grant, is estimated to be between 1600 to 2000 years old. Feeling insignificant when standing next to these natural giants is all too easy and these fire resistant behemoths have withstood more than any human will ever experience and really define the word awesome.

We have seen so much in the last five days or so and we just hope it all sinks in over the long drive we have in the next couple of days to Los Angeles, five and a half hours away, which we will be calling home until our next major stop. Disney Land, but do not tell Antoinette she might pass out.

‘Till next time,

Antoinette and James.

California: More Than Just Oranges

Our apartment on wheels

Heading out of Seattle after cruising the suburbs and market places one last time we were ready for something new, fresh and a little warmer. San Francisco is located in the Bay Area of north western California and there is so much to see and do in the northern area alone and our Lonely Planet USA book, aka our bible, is open all the time.

We had to pick up our camper from the east side of the bay in a suburb called Hayward. For all those wondering we still have thick Australian accents because we get asked to repeat everything when we are trying to tell drivers where we are going. Our camper van, who we have named Phoenix to fit in with our trashy adopted personas, was waiting for us at a motel just off the interstate highway and the only thing separating us from the road was the desire to get some sleep somewhere other than a motel car park. Phoenix is a converted Dodge van with a fuel guzzling V8 and everything you would expect in an RV; fridge, microwave, shower, toilet and what has now become a really comfy bed. The RV appeared smaller than we thought it would, but after camping out for a couple of days we have become used to making the most of the space we do have, but we digress.

Our first stop once we got on the road was Walmart to pick up some supplies for the journey ahead to make sure we don’t get caught out unprepared and then onwards towards the Napa region. Even though it has been only a matter of weeks since we had driven in Hawaii we were quickly reminded of the discourteous manner and apparent lack of peripheral vision amongst American drivers. Within minutes of being on the interstate we witnessed dozens of ‘near misses’ and saw two crashes within about ten minutes of one another and this really had us on edge considering we were ‘easy prey’ for the cut throat attitude on American roads.

Ken: Elkhorn Peak's Magician

Regardless we arrived at our campsite a little later than expected and got ourselves comfortable for the day ahead, which would see us head into one of the worlds most recognised wine regions. The morning started as many more will, by getting a little lost, but after stumbling through the Napa town centre and finding our pick up location we were taken away on a bus with four other couples to our first vineyard. The Napa Valley is about 50 km long and about seven wide and laden with vineyards and wineries capable of producing some very top quality wines.

The valley is subject to a number of different micro-climates and these different regions are suited to different varieties. The southern more temperate climates are better suited to pinot noir whilst the mountainous regions are better suited to Cabernet varieties to give the grapes the sunshine they need to ripen properly before harvest late in the season. What surprised us about the valley is a majority of the grape producers sell nearly all of their grapes to the local wineries, while keeping a small percentage for themselves, to create a system of sustainability and quality throughout the Napa region.

The 'Yates Family Representative

Our first vineyard was Elkhorn Peak and Ken, the owner, has been growing pinot noir in the valley for about 30 years and his wines were really a cut above the rest. His passion and ability to cut through all the bullshit and misconceptions many have of the wine industry really caught our attention and his no nonsense approach to growing a top quality grape delivered sensationally tasty results. The most disappointing thing about the smaller producers is that most will not ship overseas because it is too expensive and they cannot guarantee their wines will not be affected by the shipping methods so we had to make do with a couple of bottles of pinot and a really tasty desert style wine that, we swear, will only be consumed when we get back home. Napa is a really beautiful region and had we the time and money we would have stayed for much longer and tasted our way through many more of the small vineyards to get a real taste for what the Napa Valley has to offer.

After saying goodbye to the valley we took Saturday to re-fit our RV and get ourselves properly settled. We have pulled out the bed into a more permanent position and stored everything away to get used to the limited space we have available to us. We have already found when it comes to cities and camper vans it is cheaper to get a room at a motel than it is to stay at an RV park, which could be anywhere from 30 to 40 minutes away from the city centre. Our list of cities to visit includes many major cities and if traffic in San Francisco is anything to go by staying off the roads will be a very wise move for our sanity, not to mention safety. San Francisco will be our home for the next couple of days and with Alcatraz and plenty more on our agenda before heading out to Yosemite and onwards to Kings Canyon we really have a lot to think about.

‘Till next time,

Antoinette and James. 

Seattle: Sleepless? No way.

The sunset over the lakes crossing the US / Canada border

Leaving Whistler we decided to take a different approach to traveling, we have typically broken longer journeys into two, so we decided to treat it like a band aid and rip it off in one go. After starting our trip at 10am with a bus ride, followed by another bus ride, followed by a painful five-hour wait in a bus station, followed by a train ride over the border and finally a cab we arrived at Seattle Hostel around 11pm. After more than 11 hours of travel we were glad to stop moving and get ourselves settled in the heart of downtown Seattle.

Our accommodation is an old historic building given a new cutting edge feel with local artists transforming each room into a quirky representation of contemporary art. The artist who themed our room is obviously quite an interesting character and her interest in exploring the relationship between organic subjects and technology is an interesting setting to chill in. Being right in the middle of the city is a huge bonus and everything we need is within a ten minute walk or less.

Our first morning we took advantage of the sunshine, a rare thing for Seattle, and wandered [or waddled after taking advantage of the hostel’s free breakfast] to the well known Pike Place Markets. The diversity and quality represented throughout the marketplace was quite something and at 10:30 in the morning the place was pumping and full of people. It sounds strange, but the vibe at the markets was something quite special and being back in a city again after Whistler was really a big buzz.

Gotta love Seattle Hard Rock

After cruising our way around and getting a little lost, we’re quite use to that now, we headed for Space Needle and the attached Experience Music Project and Sci-Fi Museum. The EMP [Experience Music Project] is a representation of the musical movements and individuals who have shaped music history in Seattle and around the world. From ancient posters of Jazz artists in the early 20s and 30s, the perms of Hard Rock superstars, draft lyrics handwritten by Kurt Cobain and guitars used and trashed by Jimi Hendrix this place is a music buff’s paradise. There were stacks of interactive exhibits and after Antoinette had a go at slappin’ the bass, James almost loosing Roofus [our little point and shoot camera] and mixing ‘Sweet Dreams’ by the Eurythmics [quite badly we are sorry to say] it was time to check out the Sci-Fi Museum.

Each cabinet and glass case was overflowing with costumes, books and movie props to satisfy and interest some one with even the most fleeting of interests in sci-fi stuff. Full size Teenage Mutant Ninja turtles, ET and a wide range of robots and droids and original movie posters adorned the walls of sci-fi museum and the scariest thing was most of it is either made or donated by fans of the movies. After coming a little too close to a Tranformers poster of the animated movie it was time to rip James away from his boyhood hero, Optamus Prime, and go to higher ground.

Ready for take off.

The Space Needle was a little expensive, $20 each, to get to the top and were it not for the blustery wind conditions and the cold we probably could have got our money’s worth out of it. It was something worth doing, but it really did look a whole lot more impressive from the outside, as do many things in this city. Don’t get us wrong it was cool to see one of Seattle’s most well known landmarks, but we both felt it needed more to justify the price of admission.

After feeling a little jaded by the whole Sky Tower thing we headed back to the hostel to reload for the next day of cruising one of Seattle’s most historic sections. Pioneer square is one of the most historic parts of Seattle and the architecture really reflects so many qualities of the city itself. Old red brick buildings tower over the arcades and streets filled with boutique fashion houses and quaint art galleries nestled in between plenty of caffeine replenishment zones, restaurants and pubs. Most of the Pioneer Square area was built after the great fires in the late 1800s and exploded into the consciousness of ordinary American’s when it was marketed as a ‘gateway to gold country’ during the biggest gold rush in America that lasted the best part of two decades. It was a good thing we came during the day as this area has quite a bad reputation at night, especially on the weekends, so we decided something a little more sophisticated was in order for our night time shenanigans.

A lazy dinner and some down time awaited before we ventured out to a club called ‘The Tripple Door and Musicquarium,’ for a live Jazz troupe and a few glasses of Napa Valley Cab Sav. The music was good, but the wine was better, and after chilling in the mood lighting for a few hours we retreated happier than when we arrived and devoured plenty of sleep until the next morning.

Saturday had arrived and we decided a ‘do nothing day’ was essential. We finalized a few little bits and pieces, including the arrangements for picking up the motor home, and our first stay at a trailer park in the Napa Valley, which is more expensive than we thought. As time passes we are getting a lot better at not spending so much while still spending enough to keep ourselves from going insane. We spent so much more than we thought or intended too during the first month and a half, but we did not really know what to expect so we are both glad to be on the mainland away from most of the tourism oriented places where businesses charge a shiteload of money just because they can.

A mural that sums up Seattle's diversity and heritage.

Money matters aside Sunday was spent cruising through the Fremont Sunday markets and delving deep into ‘vintage’ territory. This district is certainly the most alternative we have seen thus far and Antoinette described it perfectly when she said ‘this area is like Fremantle except it is hip, not hippy.’ With plenty of random junk and trinkets to pick up and touch we spent a few hours looking at all things weird and wonderful and after buying a couple of little bits we headed home happy that we were able to check out something that really felt like Seattle. There is also plenty of public artwork around on almost every street corner in Fremont. A Lenin Statue from Europe on North 35^th, a troll under a bridge snacking on a VW Beetle on North 36^th and statues waiting at a disused bus stop on North 34^th all testify to the artistic nature of this city and is a very welcome sight under the overcast skies.

We have a couple of days left in Seattle and have a couple of things left on our ‘to do’ list before we leave and after cramming so much into days just passed it should be a leisurely cruise to the finish and then onwards to genuine sourdough bread [sorry Antoinette], cable cars, Alcatraz and San Francisco.

Whistler: No snow, but that does not matter

Antoinette and our S'mores mascot chowing down

So leaving Vancouver was hard, seeing that we had to say goodbye to an old friend that we might not see again for quite some time, but the decision to head through to Whistler was definitely a good one.

Our last couple of days in Vancouver were spent lazily strolling the arcades and shopping districts of the downtown area and introducing Amy, our Canadian hostess, to the delights of Masala Dosai [deliciously golden rice and lentil crepes stuffed with spicy potato for those that do not already know and if you do not we suggest you get acquainted with these addictively tasty beasts].

Amy returned the favour by introducing us to 's'mores,' delicious sandwich style treats consisting of crackers [gluten free of course], fire roasted marshmallows and plenty of chocolate. Not exactly the most healthy things, but damn they were tasty. Be warned friends we shall be sharing the love, but never the recipe.

One of Vancouver's hidden gems was found on our last day in Granville island, which is actually a peninsula but being outsiders we did not want to stir the pot too much, and with markets, wicked lunch options, a pretty damn good busker, glass blowing, art school, hammock store and a brewery. If ever there was a location for a lazy day this place is perfect.

Quite a view 'eh

So after tying up lose ends and relaxing to our hearts content we had to farewell Amy's crazy Grandma and her cozy home it was time to head out into the mountains for some of that fresh mountain air.

The bus ride out to Whistler was very scenic and the weather gods did allow us to take full advantage of the two and a half hour bus ride into the mountains that hosted the winter Olympics earlier this year.

Our accommodation is a small bed and breakfast just outside of Whistler’s town centre and had the ‘Golden Dreams Bed and Breakfast’ been closer to town it would have been the equivalent of a five star hotel for the both of us. It is awesome to wake up and have breakfast waiting on the table upstairs and also get the locals interpretation of the weather forecast to help us decide what will be worth doing and when to do it. Being fed without having to do dishes might sound like a small thing for most, but for people trying to save cash wherever and whenever they can it is a luxury we are enjoying to the max.

Since arriving in Whistler we have found ourselves busy pretty much all day every day and there is always something to do in or just outside of the hustle and bustle that is the Whistler and Blackcomb Mountains. There is something about these mountainous landscapes that have us both in a spell and seeing these places drive us to see more of the same and we have both vowed a trip to the Himalayas is on the table after this whole around the world shindig.

We spent Saturday climbing to heights other St.Kilda fans could only dream of [after the disappointment that was the grand final rematch] and after 20 minutes in the gondola line and a 11 minute gondola ride we were at the lodge atop Whistler Mountain. Panoramic views of the valley carved by a massive glacier measuring more than 2000m thick greeted us and after taking more than just a couple of shots of the distant mountains and lush temperate rain forest we decided it was time to head over to Blackcomb mountain.

No photoshop here. It is a wild bird.

In the old days we are sure getting to the summit of both mountains in one day would have been an achievement worthy of wenches and ales at the lodgings below, but for us it was as simple as presenting a ticket to the Peak 2 Peak ‘gondola technician.’ The Peak 2 Peak gondola carries passengers between the summits of Whistler and Blackcomb Mountain and is truly one of a kind. Suspended over 430m above the valley floor at its highest point and a distance of over 3000m classified as ‘unsupported span’ it was quite a ride, with the exception of camera happy tourists able to do everything except for sit down and just enjoy the ride.

Once at the lodge on Blackcomb we headed down one of the walking trails and were blown away by some of the epic views we had and also some of the close encounters with local wildlife. This experience alone was enough to warrant another visit to this awesome mountain township, but with so much ahead of us we will have to add it too the list.

Sunday afternoon was not without irony. We decided a light stroll after lunch was in order and after some seriously tasty gluten free gnocchi [quite a find we know] we found ourselves getting seriously lost trying to find ‘Lost Lake.’ After walking aimlessly through the Douglas Firs and Red Cedar trees we found what we were looking for. The Lake was reflecting the grey skies and surrounding trees and was something we have never seen before so we decided to kick back, enjoy the view and add a few photos to the ‘Leg’ album for all those in the know back in ol’ P-Town.

Our Transportation and Lost Lake

After taking it easy for more than a couple of days our adrenaline levels, well James’ at least, needed a bit of a boost so we booked ourselves in on Ziptrek’s Eagle Tour. The package included two and a half hours amongst 10, 000 year old rainforest, five zip lines [including Canada’s longest] across the valley and walking 40m above the undergrowth on walkways and suspension bridges from tree to tree. The whole experience was eye opening and it was a fantastic way to see the valley. What really made it worthwhile was the fact every aspect of the tour was carefully planned and executed to minimise the impact on the delicate ecosystem surrounding the platforms and trails. From the untreated red cedar platforms sourced from heli-logging plantations in Canada to offsetting the carbon used by the bus to transport the group to the first zip line, Ziptrek is truly a shining example of eco tourism and really makes you think about what you can accomplish as an individual, and perhaps as a business in the future.

With only one whole day left in Whistler Blackcomb we are about to spend the day cruising around town and packing our bags once again for the full day of travel we have tomorrow. Another two and a half hour bus trip awaits before we jump on a train and head south across the border to arrive in Seattle by 10pm local time. Our time in Whistler has delivered everything we expected it to, partly because we had no expectations and if you ever find your way to British Columbia you just have to make the effort and come out to mountain country.

‘Till next time,

Antoinette and James.