The End of The Road: Almost

Leaving Florida was easy, it would have been less easy had we known the sunshine we saw would be the last we would see until reaching the northern most parts of North Carolina. We headed for a place called Charleston on the South Carolina coast and arrived just ahead of bad weather that seems to have been stalking us since we left like a shadow. Charleston is a place full of history and architecture stretching back to the conflicts that shaped the United States into what they have become today. Charleston is a quiet port town thriving on the near by college and tourism for more than a couple of reasons. Our first day in Charleston saw us brave the cool conditions embracing the area to check out the Ft.Sumter Island and cruise around the museums and restaurants dotted along the riverfront.

Ft.Sumter

Ft.Sumter is a fortification used throughout the last two hundred years to defend the strategically important coastal access and was where the first shots of the United States civil war rang out. Charleston was also a hub for the trade and sale of slaves in the 1700s and learning about the history of the time and the area was a humbling and thought provoking experience. The labor purchased was used to fuel the growth of plantations in the area and drove the local economy from strength to strength and maintained many households throughout the Charleston area. There were some amazing examples of architecture spread through the downtown district and we finally got to see the inside of one of them after trying about four others in the pouring rain. The splendor of these houses was an impression of the lifestyles lived by those with the means and money to make something of their family name and seeing very well preserved furniture well over 200 years old was fascinating.

Check out those cannons on the North Carolina

The colder weather meant our expeditions outdoors were becoming shorter and our planned route would see us travel further northwest towards Central America. We changed our minds after driving through a winter wonderland and constant sleet on our way to see Bishopville. After two days in the freezing cold and our new route that would see us stay closer to the coast all the way up to Washington DC meant the coastal town of Wilmington, North Carolina, would be our home for a couple of nights. To pass the time we decided to tour the USS North Carolina, the most decorated US battleship from the WWII Pacific Campaign. The size of the ship is really deceptive and being able to walk through nine levels of solid steel makes you realize how massive these ships really were. There were some eerie moments below decks, including one were the lights turned out momentarily, and seeing the massive projectiles the USS North Carolina fired through the 16” cannons above was frightening in an awesome kind of way. The tour seemed to take forever and it took most of the afternoon to wind our way up and down through the levels and sections of the ship before coming back out onto the main deck to get hit by a seriously chilly wind. Wilmington is also renowned for its boardwalk shopping district, but it was far from what we expected and after a few hours of pointless and fruitless meandering we headed back to Phoenix to take in a good hot dinner, our last southern dining experience [mmm…ribs] and a little rest and recuperation.

Mmmm...cold.

After a few relaxing days in Wilmington we continued our north bound adventures with the Outer Banks and Cape Hatteras of North Carolina well and truly in our sightes. The weather was atrocious and we were both fighting colds while the wind and rain rocked our little RV from side to side with us well and truly thanking our decision to invest in top quality thermal gear. Now would be as good a time as any to mention the lengths we are going to in order to stay warm in these sub zero temperatures. A typical outing requires two pairs of socks, a singlet, two shirts, two jumpers, two pairs of thermal leggings, a pair of jeans, a rain jacket, gloves and a beanie. Getting in and out of this gargantuan collection of thermal clothing is a time consuming task, but necessary as even this still sees our extremities feel the bite of the cold more than both of us would like. Driving isn’t the bad part, because the heating keeps us really warm, but when we stop and the chill sets in it doesn’t take very long for Phoenix to cool down. Keeping warm is tough enough, but with the sights and attractions becoming sparser and further apart it wouldn’t take us to long to get through what we had planned in the Outer Banks.

I believe I can fly

For those who know their aviation history the Wright brothers certainly need no introduction and the first point of call in the Outer Banks was paying the first men in flight a visit. Over 100 years ago two brothers who owned a bicycle store started coming to the Kitty Hawk area of the Outer Banks to test their imaginations and engineering skill. The results landed their names in history books as the first men to achieve self propelled flight and kick started the aviation industry. Seeing the area where the brothers conducted their historic tests and seeing first hand the distance achieved by the first flyer was really something special and inspiring. After wandering around the parkland and checking out some of the exhibits we headed south along the Outer Banks to check out the tallest lighthouse in the United States.

The Cape Hatteras lighthouse looks like a massive barbers pole and is one of the oldest operational lighthouses left in the country. The lighthouse is a massive building and was impressively moved from its original location away from the crumbling sea wall several years ago. The weather at the time made it difficult to see the top of the lighthouse, but it was more something to pass the time than a ‘must do.’ Typically during the warmer months the lighthouse is open to the public allowing wicked views of the banks and the small coastal island, but with tourism season well and truly over we just had to take their word for it. The Outer Banks area really does thrive on tourism and most of the businesses in the area were closed for the season and this would definitely be an amazing place to visit during the summer months. This concluded our North Carolina adventures and DC was our next point of call.

Arriving in the nations capitol was exciting for a couple of reasons, one being the feeling of seeing the places we have seen so much of through modern media and the other was the fact our road trip of a life time was close to its conclusion. For two days we took in the history and culture of the DC area and visited the Smithsonian museums and monuments that make this area a hotbed for tourism and everything American. Standing on the stairs of the Lincoln memorial and being in a place where so many brilliant minds and movements have pronounced their missions to the world was a very surreal feeling for both of us. Another favourite place of ours was the American Museum of National History, which features everything from original Muppet dolls, Dorothy’s red slippers from The Wizard of Oz and one of the very first star spangled banners ever made. Seeing so much in such short a time made it difficult to absorb, but standing before a copy of the Magna Carta from 1297, original copies of the bill of rights, the United States’ Constitution and the declaration of independence was a humbling experience. It is not the age and condition of the documents, but instead the knowledge that surrounded these documents when they were written and being in the vicinity of something so historically significant is something we both will not be forgetting in a hurry. So after two jam packed days of overloading our brains with more history than we have witnessed before and a winter storm closing in on New York we cut one day from our intended stay in DC to beat the storm and return Phoenix the next day.

The drive was uneventful, and we wish we could say that for the events that followed, but we have run into what could be a costly issue with Phoenix. Upon checking into yet another budget motel and taking Phoenix to the drop off location everything seemed to be going to plan until we were asked if we had ‘winterised’ the RV. This was the first time we had heard of this and we asked what it meant. Apparently RVs are incredibly susceptible to cold weather [well at least the plumbing, pumps and fixtures] and the pipes and attached accessories are supposed to be either emptied by air pressure or filled with non toxic anti freeze to ensure the system does not suffer freezing damage. Our vehicle supplier never made us aware of the potential damage cold weather could inflict on the RV and the documents they supplied mention nothing regarding maintenance of the system in preparing for sub zero temperatures, so needless to say, we feel a little cheated. After such an epic adventure and road trip to have something like this happen and have a potentially hefty bill hang over our heads is absolutely devastating and we both have a few sleepless nights ahead while the rental company assesses the damage. Not really the way we wanted to say goodbye to Phoenix and we are looking into our options and awaiting further information before deciding what to do. So stay tuned for more.

‘Till next time,

Antoinette and James.

Mission Accomplished: Well Almost

Antoinette's XMas Tree

We left you with a massive interval between entries last time and believe us when we say our days have been full on for most of the last three weeks. With Christmas, New Years and so much in between finding time to rest, let alone update you all on what we have been doing, has been hard. Christmas Day was amazing and we both got to chat with family, which was a boost we both really needed, as was the cocktail with vodka, juice and champagne poured into a novelty yard glass procured in Vegas. We had so much good food and were able to spend the day drifting in and out of sleep while watching movies and tv, which is something we have not been able to do since we left home all those months ago.

Prawns: Cuban Style

Tampa is a city sharing a lot of similarities with Perth due to it’s size, population and proximity to the ocean and nearby porting facilities. The port of Tampa is still one of the most important and busiest in the USA as all goods must pass through Tampa from South America onwards up to the east coast and even further for Europe. One afternoon was spent on a cycling tour of downtown Tampa, which was thoroughly deserted because of school holidays and the Christmas break. The tour was a great way to get acquainted with some of the history of Tampa and how this city has evolved through the last century. What started as a small colony was not a destination until the railroad was installed and allowed a port to be established on the west coast of what would become the Florida peninsula. It then became a hotbed for immigrant populations and Cubans, Italians and Spanish peoples would settle and influence the areas food and culture over the coming years. Tampa was once home to the largest cigar manufacturing plants in the world and it was not until the 1930s that their economic influence could not overcome the depression, advances in cigar manufacturing production and subsequent downturn in demand for hand rolled cigars. Since then the plants have been permanently closed. The evening was finished with our first Cuban dining experience, which took place at the largest family owned restaurant in America, in a place capable of serving 1500 people for each meal. The food was good and plentiful and left us with a very satisfied feeling for downtown Tampa.

Our view from the mountains.

Tampa had one last event in store for us and after freezing our asses off in the nosebleed section of Raymond James stadium watching the Buccaneers comprehensively beat the Seahawks, it was time to head west for St.Petersburg. St.Petersburg is billed as Tampa’s dysfunctional brother, but we did not really see the wild side we expected. The day we spent in St.Pete’s dissolved taking in the largest public display of works by the genius Salvadore Dali and chilling on the pier. The collection of Dali’s masterpieces is quite amazing and seeing the different stages this artist went through to achieve his ‘master’ status was intriguing and insightful to say the least. The magnitude of his bigger works is really something and the intricacies and illusions he places on canvas firmly cements his position as one of the most impressive and unique artists of recent history. Our detour through St.Pete’s was a welcome change from the ill managed RV park we found ourselves trapped in over the Christmas break, but with the east coast calling our names it was time to head south for Miami and some much needed sunshine.

The infamous Ocean Drive in South Beach, Miami.

The drive to Miami was brilliant, purely because the temperature increased as every hour passed, and it was not long before we were in our dodgy motel room literally across the road from the airport. We can say, with great humility, WE DID IT! We have crossed the country from San Diego to Miami with everything in between and although the gravity of what we have accomplished has not fully sunk in we both know we will be very proud of what we have done when it does. Within two days of being in Miami we had our RV serviced, picked up genuine hand rolled Ecuadorian cigars and toured the art deco district of south beach leaving us just enough time to prepare ourselves to celebrate the year that was. We headed back to South Beach to enjoy the pedestrian heaven that was made possible by road blockages on Ocean Drive, the road running alongside Miami’s most famous beach, with bars and restaurants moving their al fresco areas right out onto the roadway. Most of the entertainment was compiled into a very compact area and the evening involved us having a drink inside one art deco hotel after another taking in the freak show that was unfolding in front of us on the foot path. Being in such an iconic location for New Years was really something special. The first day of 2011 was anything but classy with a serious sleep in, junk food and plenty of trashy television and, in all honesty, it probably was not much different from many we have spent at home previously.

Sleeping alligator.

Another thing we had on our to do list in South Florida was checking out the everglades and cruising around in one of the airboats, pretty much just a dinghy with a massive fan on the back. This would happen at Billie’s Swamp Tours and Safari’s where we also saw a trainer put an alligator to sleep by rubbing its belly and were also taken on a slow drive in monster trucks through the reserve to see a variety of animals. We were able to see more animals, including some not native to the area, than we did on both of our previous swamp tours, but after seeing the everglades one swamp looks much like another. It was a nice relaxing day and was good to get out of the hotel after spending the previous day inside the confines of our small room. We have both decided to live in the moment a little more in 2011 and a spontaneous decision to take a cruise to the Bahamas was just what we needed to kick start our resolution.

Junkanoo Beach and clouds. :(

The all-inclusive tour started with a 5am pickup and being the first people aboard the shuttle we also knew we would be the last dropped off much later that night. After picking up other passengers we were taken to the terminal and were on board the discovery cruise ship in no time. The breakfast was wicked, or more wicked than anything we have had in a while, and not having to do any dishes was a great bonus. The beverages were flowing freely by mid morning, although there was no matching to table of Germans across the room who looked like they had been enjoying the free booze since boarding the vessel, and we settled in for our five hour trip to the Bahamas. The weather was not fantastic and we were told we would need to purchase tours if we wanted to do anything on the island we were headed towards because the port area is isolated from any of the sights. This pissed us off a little as we thought an ‘all inclusive’ cruise would cover things like this, but alas we caved and organized to be transported to one of the islands best beach clubs. After an okish lunch and a few hours on a sandy beach covered by an endless patchwork of clouds it was time to head back to Miami. The time flew by really quickly this time, as we tipped the waiter a little more to make sure our glasses were rarely empty, and even the god awful tunes the “DJ” was playing all night couldn’t dampen our spirits. What did end up dampening our spirits was the bus ride home which saw us open our hotel room door two and a half hours after reaching shore in Miami at about 11:30pm.

Any higher and we would need oxygen.

Like we have mentioned before we have been doing something pretty much every day and the following day was no different. On our last night in Miami we cruised back to South Beach to soak it all up one last time and give Antoinette a chance to get some photos of the brightly lit fluorescent signs adorning the classic art deco hotels in the area. Afterwards we headed for American Airline’s Arena to see the Miami Heat clash with the Milwaukee Bucks, host of fellow Australian Andrew Bogut. Seeing some really classy NBA players like Lebron James and Dwayne Wade make shots with such ease was really wicked and even Antoinette managed to stay interested right through to the end of the game. The game was surprisingly close right throughout until the last five minutes when the Heat rolled over the top of the Buck’s and forged ahead by a dozen or more points. Even after such an American experience the dilemmas awaiting us upon exiting the arena sum up Miami’s worst aspect. Traffic in Miami is $#@!&^! Drivers use their horns excessively and do nothing but put those around them on edge. We were abused a couple of times by very ugly women speeding around in SUV’s with no regard or care for road rules let alone the state of their bashed up faces. It seems like red lights are optional and seeing people rush through them at the last second or block a busy intersection because they don’t realize their car is not going to fit behind the one in front is frustrating to a point you would find hard to fathom without experiencing it. We now totally understand why people in the country have such big trucks. It is so if anyone pisses them off they can run right over the top of them. Every one seems in such a hurry here and perhaps if they made it compulsory for drivers to listen to 93.1 Easy FM, our favourite station while driving, the soothing sounds of the Beach Boys, Elton John and more would melt away at the tension rising on Miami’s roadways. This traffic is the one thing we are both glad to see behind us upon leaving Miami.

Leaving Miami left only one destination in Florida before saying goodbye to big cities until Washington DC in late January, Orlando. Of course if you haven’t already made the connection between Antoinette and Orlando we will give you a second to figure it out…

WALT DISNEY’S DISNEY WORLD!

Antoinette and her house.

This is the other half of what we started in California a few months ago and we had quite a challenge of cramming four Disney Land size parks into one day. To do this we had to skip a few attractions, pump ourselves full of caffeine, eat on the run and spend time busing between parks, but we both had a really good time. A highlight for both of us was the first ride we went on, and Animal Kingdom’s newest ride, in Everest. The ride was nuts and was a great way to kick start the adrenaline we would undoubtedly need to keep firing all day to make sure we did not stop. After Animal Kingdom we headed straight for Disney’s Hollywood Studios and tackled the Tower of Terror and put up with Aerosmith’s freakishly wide face waiting in line for over an hour for a ride that lasted less than a minute. The rest of the day was spent wandering to Epcot and then the Magical Kingdom, waiting excessively long times for rides and scouring the souvenir places for a second time to make sure Antoinette did not miss anything. Disney World is a massive place and trying to cram so many worlds into one day really is not the way to go and we both would have loved another day or two to really experience it, but we now have a valid reason to come back to the US that does not involve BBQing animals. The lines were a real drawback and we spent somewhere between four and five hours of the day in lines waiting for rides and the fastpass system was impractical as the return times were past what we could afford for each park. We both agree that Disney Land is our preferred destination between the two for a couple of reasons, less people crowding the good stuff and more characters. The only character we saw all day was an ant from one of the animated movies, but we did catch a glimpse of Mickey, Donald, Minnie and Goofy’s head while on a monorail ride past one of the resort dining rooms.

We returned back to Phoenix, our RV in case you have forgotten, exhausted and crashing from a sugar high that lasted most of the day. Nothing a stiff drink couldn’t fix though. This was our last day in Florida and we now have only a handful of states and miles resting between us, Washington and then New York. The countdown to apartment living has definitely begun and we are both looking forward to having an oven, a bathroom we don’t have to walk outside to get to and somewhere we can unpack more than the cloths we are wearing that day. Florida really did deliver some pleasant and unexpected surprises and we cannot wait to go back to Miami and Orlando to experience it all again some day, alas we have plenty more ahead of us yet.

‘Till next time,

Antoinette and James.

So Close To The East Coast

First and foremost I would like to apologise for how long it has been since updating the blog, but we’re not going to. The last two weeks have been a traveling whirlwind and we will get you up to speed very soon.

Saying goodbye to Texas was easier than either of us expected because it did not take long to cross the border into Louisiana and we had no idea when we actually said goodbye to Texas. Another gargantuan seven-hour drive was just what we needed, NOT. The destination we selected, however, proved itself worthy of our patronage and our first stop in Louisiana was a place called Lafayette. This small metropolis is known for its live music, great Cajun and Creole cuisine and swamp dwelling animals. Among other things we were drawn to this place because it is the where Tabasco sauce was born and is still the only bottling plant for the world famous and instantly recognizable McIlhenny product.

The worlds biggest Tabasco bottle.

Our first order of business was to get settled in a cozy RV park and get set for another night below freezing. All we can say is thank god we have top quality sleeping bags and we both know we are pushing their boundaries as some nights on our adventure have been cold enough to shorten any mans…well you get the picture. After figuring out how to get to Avery Island, the home of the McIlnenney family for generations, we arrived at one of the Lafayette areas biggest attractions. The factory tour was free, our wallets were grateful, and explained some of the history and pulled apart almost all the mysteries of Tabasco sauce. The peppers are treated with salt taken from the Avery Island salt mines, regardless of where in the world the peppers are grown, and then left in oak whiskey barrels to mature for three years. Once the mash is ready it is stirred constantly for 28 days and bottled in the trademark red capped, foil sealed bottles that have become synonymous with the brand.

Cooling our tongues after the sample bar. 

After the factory tour there was a gift shop offering samples of all the Tobasco products. Needless to say, due to the fact we have been deprived of Mt. Barker chicken products for so long, we were craving the burn and proceeded to sample everything they had on offer. Our personal favourite was their latest invention. An earthy chipotle pepper sauce that had an amazing BBQ feel to it. All you chili lovers should really look out for this, we could not get enough of it and after blasting our tongues into oblivion we had to save them with some jalapeno ice cream [which was actually pretty damn good]. The aftermath of the Tabasco factory left us feeling satisfied and in need of a change of pace to allow our tongues to cool down before our first taste of Louisiana cuisine. The rest of the afternoon was spent driving through Avery Island’s Jungle Gardens, which were nothing spectacular, and becoming acquainted with a local snack known as boudin balls, a very satisfying mix of spices, pork and rice deep fried to a deep golden brown.

Louisiana Swampland

Not satisfied with the lack of local wildlife at the Jungle Gardens we headed to our first swamp experience with hopes of seeing gators galore. The day was really overcast and quite windy so our chances were dashed before we even arrived at our starting point. For two and a half hours we were driven through the calm waters of the lake and swamp with flora and fauna being pointed out along the way. Plenty of birds were eyeing us suspiciously and we did see one tiny alligator, but the highlight of it all was being driven around for two hours and doing nothing other than soak up the scenery. Some of the trees in the swamp, which has been devastated by logging in times gone by, are over 500 years old and some of the birds looked more than a little weird.

A Cajun / Creole Feast

The day would be completed with our first Louisiana dining experience and even though we did not know what to expect it was kind of a good thing we had low expectations. The food was ok, but nothing special. The alligator was tasty, the bbq prawns’ sauce was disappointing [un-shelling these was not much fun either], the jambalaya was horribly bland, but the chicken and sausage gumbo was very delicious. Overall we tried a few of Louisiana’s most recognizable dishes and were happy we did, but we really felt this place did not do the food justice so we are still on the look out for a quality southern cuisine establishment.

Beignets and Coffee New Orleans Style

The next day we were headed for New Orleans, or N’awlins depending on how thick your accent is, and had scheduled a tour for the very same day. The tour guide was very informative and really explained the history of New Orleans and the surrounding area incredibly well. This part of the city is bustling with activity and the buildings are a throw back to what was cool centuries ago. The square in front of the church and old priest’s accommodation was very picturesque and you could not help but feel the history oozing from every street corner in a place like this. There is, however, a dark side to New Orleans and even five years after the events of Katrina this is still a city very much on the mend. The RV park we were staying at had a shuttle bus driven by a New Orleans police officer who made it very obvious areas outside of the French Quarter is still not safe for locals, let alone tourists. The French Quarter itself is across the road from some of the worst projects in the area and the driver also pointed out ‘you hoos’ standing on the borders of the French Quarter who spot tourists leaving the area and let their friends know to come and collect their prize. This is definitely a place you want to be on your toes and from impromptu street poets wanting to serenade you for a cost or people wanting to guess where you got your shoes from there is always someone looking to get after what you have.

With a line this long it had to be good.

We did not let this deter our expeditions as we managed to wander the quarter incident free for almost two days and get accustomed to what the locals do. We made a few stops for coffee at Café Du Mont, which specializes is coffee mixed with chicory and also offers beignets, delicious traditional French donuts smothered in icing sugar, that are so very addictive when fresh. Another thing on our to do list was the infamous po boy sandwich. These monsters are a long French baguette cut in half stuffed with baked ham, roast beef, potato frites and gravy. The modern day equivalents have any variety, meat or filling you can think of. These N’Awlins sandwiches are an amazingly satisfying and messy meal that was so very worth it. After lunch we were rolling around the streets because walking was out of the question, but we could not say goodbye to the French Quarter so soon. We still had to get up close and personal with a ‘real jazz’ band.

The 726 Jazz band.

This was to take place in a historic building called Preservation Hall, which has been an institution in New Orleans since the 1920s or 30s. We arrived an hour and a half before the doors opened and we were surprisingly not the first people there. Within 20 minutes the line was bigger and minutes before the door opened the line disappeared around the corner. The old mantra of ‘if the line is this long it HAS to be good’ is definitely true at Preservation Hall. The band was incredibly tight and every member was a master of his or her respective instrument. The songs were delivered with passion and soul like we have never experienced and Will Smith, the singer slash front man slash trumpet player for the 726 Jazz Band, had a voice that demanded your ears’ attention even before he launched into the lyrics. The venue was a perfect reminder of the history that surrounded us in the French Quarter and being in such an intimate venue and hearing such talented musos go about their craft was exactly what we came to New Orleans for.

A manatee. Seriously strange and slow.

Leaving New Orleans after such a wicked taste of live music was hard and even though we would have loved to stay and listen to more the road was calling once again. Our destination was Tallahassee, Florida, which is getting closer and closer to the east coast and we are both so excited to be close to accomplishing our goal of driving across the United States. To think we were chilling on a beach in San Diego not long ago and in under a week, by the time you read this, we will be lazing in the Miami sunshine. The gravity of this accomplishment has not even begun to sink in yet, but we know it will probably kick in when we arrive in New York on January 26 and hand the keys back for our RV. Tallahassee was a quick stop before heading further south in Florida and we made the most of our time by heading to Wakulla Springs, the worlds deepest freshwater spring, and getting outdoors before the madness of more American big cities. Getting there was easy and once there we were told there were some manatees grazing in the main spring and these things are certainly one strange creature. Think of underwater cows crossed with dolphins and you can imagine what they look and move like. They have the speed of an underwater steam roller, but can definitely move when confronted with a boat of tourists, and the mobility of a fridge in a small apartment building. The manatees were an unexpected surprise, but we also saw plenty of alligators, something we did not see on our swamp tour, and plenty of turtles as well so it was nice to see all the things we should have seen in Louisiana in Florida, but no hard feelings of course.

Christmas came and went quickly and was filled with champagne, luxuries like bacon, cheese, mushrooms and a new season of entourage to help the day cruise by, which you will hear about in greater detail in the next entry. On boxing day we headed to Raymond James stadium to see the Tampa Bay Buccaneers take on the Seattle Seahawks and being at the game was really entertaining and had all our attention not been turned to keeping our extremities from freezing the game would have been more of a spectacle. After Tampa we were bound for St. Petersburg before touching down on the coast of the Atlantic in Miami to complete our transcontinental road trip and get closer to our ultimate objective, New York.

‘Till next time,

Antoinette and James.